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Whether or not you’ve actually used the term “protective hairstyle,” if you have tightly curled or coily hair, there’s a very good chance you’ve worn one. Those plaits with the ball hair ties you wore on your first day of kindergarten? A protective hairstyle. Those Scary Spice-inspired Bantu knots you rocked in high school? Protective. The goddess braids you just copied from Pinterest? You guessed it.
What do these various looks have in common? Simply put, they keep you (and the environment) from messing with your hair. Protective hairstyles are “designed to protect the hair from damage, over-manipulation, heat, environmental stressors, and anything that can cause damage to the hair shaft,” says Cataanda James, a New York-based cosmetologist and curly hair expert. Since the scalp’s natural oils have a harder time traveling down the strands to fortify them, curly and coily hair types are more fragile and prone to damage. By minimizing manipulation, you reduce friction and, by extension, breakage. Thus, “your natural hair can retain length and stay healthy,” says Kia Harper, a professional braider based in California.
Pretty much any style that swaddles your natural hair can be considered protective; among the many cited by the experts are braids, twists, locs, crochet styles, sew-ins, Bantu knots, and wigs. “Even a tucked bun can be protective,” notes Rashuna Durham, a professional hairstylist based in Binghamton, New York. That said, a few overarching categories dominate the protective hair space. Keep reading to learn more about them.
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- The most popular types of protective styles
- Is there anyone who should avoid (or be mindful of) protective styles?
- Potential downsides to protective styles
The most popular types of protective styles
Braids
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
“Braids are typically formed with three or more sections of hair,” says James, and these sections are woven over and around one another. Arguably the poster child for protective styles, braids are beloved for their versatility: “Many braided styles can also be restyled into buns, ponytails, or updos, giving people several looks from one installation,” says Ladosha Wright, an Ohio-based professional hairstylist. They’re also fan faves for how long you can keep them in (some styles last well over a month) and how easily they give you the option to add fullness and length with added hair.
When it comes to braids, the options seem endless. Some of the most popular include cornrows, which are braided very closely to the scalp, often in straight lines (hence the name); Fulani-inspired styles, which are cornrowed in the front before cascading into loose plaits down the back; and box braids. Falling under the umbrella of box braids are knotless braids, including the trendy goddess and boho styles. These braids—in which the added hair is gradually fed into the plait, as opposed to being tied in at the base via a knot—“are especially popular because they can create a lighter, more flexible feel when installed properly,” says Durham.
Twists
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
“Twists are typically created by wrapping two sections of hair around each other,” says Durham.
While they don’t get quite as much recognition as their three-section counterparts, don’t sleep on this trusty look: “With or without added hair, twists offer a natural-looking, versatile style,” says Wright. Classic two-strand twists—in which the hair is sectioned, wrapped around itself, and hangs down in plaits—are easy to DIY and kind of the protective-style equivalent of a BOGO: “You can wear the twist and then eventually wear a twist-out and get a two-in-one style,” says Mateo Kirkpatrick, a hairstylist based in Dallas.
Along with the classic two-strand twist, popular extension-free twist styles include flat twists (which sit close to the scalp, similar to cornrows) and mini twists, which use very small sections of hair. “When hair is added, Senegalese, passion, and Marley twists are the popular options,” says Wright.
Locs
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Locs are created “as sections of hair intentionally intertwine and form together over time,” explains Durham. There are several ways to start a loc journey; one includes booking a comb coil appointment with a loctician. With this method, the stylist sections the clean, gelled hair based on hair density and preferred parting; then, they’ll use a tapered barber comb to coil each section. “Place the client under a hooded dryer for 30–45 minutes, applying spritz for the final 15–20 minutes to set the style,” says Wright. “Once the hair is completely dry, voilà! The loc journey begins.”
You can also twist your hair and leave it be (semi free-form) or allow your loose hair to just start loc’ing on its own (free-form). Regardless of the method you choose, if you have naturally coily hair, the mechanics will remain the same: Your hair will continue to loc upon itself as it grows.
Go-to loc styles include wicks, Sisterlocks, and microlocs, says Durham. For those who aren’t ready to fully commit to locs—which require much more time and effort to remove than most protective styles—“faux and soft locs offer a temporary way to achieve a similar look without permanently locking the natural hair,” she adds.
Bantu knots
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
Named after the Bantu people of Sub-Saharan Africa, Bantu knots are buns created by hair that is tightly (but not too tightly!) wound upon itself. After the hair is parted into sections, each section is twisted or braided. Those twists or braids are then wrapped up into buns. They can be small, medium, or large, and can be done on natural hair or with extensions.
While Bantu knots look fun and funky enough on their own, much like two-strand twists, they’re particularly beloved for providing two hairstyles for the price of one: Once you unravel them, you’re left with defined texture. As hairstylist Monae Everett previously told Allure, they’re “a great way to create heatless waves or preserve your curls overnight.”
Weaves and wigs
Photo: Getty Images
Photo: Getty Images
“A weave is a protective style that interlocks, attaches, connects, or weaves in extension hair, usually human, to natural hair in some form or fashion,” explains James. There are myriad ways to install weaves and extensions, but the most popular for those with coily hair is the sew-in method, wherein the natural hair is cornrowed, and the extension hair is (you guessed it) sewn into the braids. “From my experience, a sew-in is the most protective way to add length and fullness to one’s hair,” she continues. “Since the natural hair is braided and totally tucked away and secured under the weave, it’s the least exposed.”
Wigs (including partial styles, half wigs, and full wigs) can also be considered protective styles —as long as you aren’t wearing them for too long. “Full wigs that cover the entire head, scalp and hair included, block oxygen and nutrients to the follicle,” which eventually impacts hair growth, says James. So, while wigs “count,” so to speak, as long as you’re removing them “daily or periodically,” weaves are the superior longer-term option.
Is there anyone who should avoid (or be mindful of) protective styles?
As great as protective styles are, they aren’t necessarily for everyone. If your hair is fragile or damaged, “focus on healthy hair growth first, rather than protective styling,” says Jeanine Downie, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Montclair, New Jersey. She also suggests skipping these styles if you’re at risk for, or have a history of, traction alopecia. Additionally, “anyone with seborrheic dermatitis, eczema, or other conditions needs to be careful not to trigger a flare-up.”
Speaking of skin conditions, “the chemicals in some synthetics can irritate healthy skin,” says Dr. Downie; so, if you plan on adding length or fullness and your skin tends to be on the sensitive side, consider investing in human hair.
Potential downsides to protective styles
Across protective styles (and experts), two big potential drawbacks are continually cited: tension and product buildup. “Excessive tension, heavy extensions, product buildup, and improper takedown can all lead to breakage, thinning, and scalp irritation,” says Harper.
Tension is no joke. If your style is too tight or too heavy, it can cause “severe traction on the scalp, disrupting the normal hair-growth cycle and ultimately causing irreversible scarring and permanent damage to the follicle,” explains Dr. Downie.
How exactly do you know if a style is too tight? She says you can literally see the signs; for example, “small bumps, red or white, at the base [of the braids] can be a clear indicator of an adverse reaction and the follicle being inflamed.” They might also just… feel too tight. “Even dull pain is a sign,” says Dr. Downie. Harper concurs: “I always emphasize that your hair shouldn’t hurt when you’re getting it done.”
As for product buildup, remember that a protective style isn’t carte blanche to get lax with your cleansing routine. Dr. Downie recommends washing and conditioning your hair frequently (ideally once a week), and using a detoxifying shampoo. I suggest Ouai’s Clarifying Detox Shampoo, which is formulated with apple-cider vinegar and chelating agents that remove impurities. It leaves my hair feeling spick-and-span, but never stripped or too dry (and gets bonus points for the dreamy fruit-floral smell).
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Detox Shampoo
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With most braid and twist styles, shampooing and conditioning is relatively simple since you have access to your scalp. That said, “not everyone is savvy enough to shampoo their hair without disturbing the braids or pattern,” notes James, “in which case, I recommend using scalp sprays and braid sprays, which are designed and tested to address many of the hair concerns of protective styles.” Cécred’s Scalp Refresher Spray features a blend of ferments that dissolve buildup; this product also has some of the more ingenious packaging I’ve ever encountered, with a slim spray nozzle that gets right into braids without disrupting the style.
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Scalp Refreshing Spray
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Post-wash, Dr. Downie suggests eschewing “super heavy, occlusive waxes; instead, opt for lightweight, fragrance-free, more soluble oils.” Consider jojoba, the main ingredient in Pattern’s Jojoba Hair & Scalp Oil Blend.
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Pattern Beauty
Jojoba Oil Hair Serum
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The experts also stress prompt removal and proper takedown (consult with your stylist if you’re unsure what that looks like for your style). “It’s important to give your hair a break between installations and make sure you’re taking care of your natural hair underneath,” says Harper. “At the end of the day, a protective style should protect your hair, not compromise its health.”
Meet the experts
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- Jeanine Downie, MD, is a dermatologist in Montclair, New Jersey.
- Rashuna Durham is a hairstylist based in Binghamton, New York.
- Kia Harper is a braider based in Chicago.
- Cataanda James is a hairstylist based in New York City.
- Mateo Kirkpatrick is a hairstylist based in Dallas.
- Ladosha Wright is a professional hairstylist based in Cleveland Heights, Ohio.
